I. Physical indicators of cashmere products

 

1.The amount of cashmere content
A quality cashmere sweater should have a 100% cashmere content. However, due to the mutation of cashmere itself (production of small amounts of coarse fibres), and external impurities (such as grass thorns, foreign fibres, wool and other factors), the cashmere content may not always be 100%. However, if the content of other impurities is no more than 5%, i.e. when the cashmere content is 95% and above, the product can be considered to be 100% cashmere and marked as 100% cashmere.

 

2. Bursting strength and weave density
The bursting strength refers to the firmness of the cashmere sweater, and is related to weave density. The greater the bursting strength, the longer the lifespan of the product. A higher breaking strength requires a higher weave density or thicker.

 

3.Pilling level
Friction between the cashmere sweater and the outside world during the wearing and washing process will cause fleece to intertwine together and form small balls, this is commonly known as pilling. Pilling in cashmere products affects the appearance of the cashmere sweater, so it is very important to control the degree of pilling in cashmere sweaters. There are 5 levels of pilling, the higher the level, the better the quality. Level 3 or above is a qualified product, and levels 4-5 are considered high quality.

 

4.Dyeing fastness
The colour of cashmere is formed by dyeing. The degree to which the product can maintain its original colour after wearing, washing and other external factors is called colour fastness. There are 5 grades of colour fastness, qualified products are grade 3, high quality products are grade 4 and above. The grading assessments include lightfastness, washing resistance, rub resistance, water resistance, and sweat resistance, etc.

 

5. Physical indicators of dichloromethane solubility
The determination of the physical indicators of dichloromethane solubility refers to the detection of the components of the soluble dichloromethane-soluble substances in cashmere products. It includes natural cashmere grease, and detergents, softeners, and oils used in the production process. Improper use and control can cause the exceeding of standards, which leads to odour and a sticky texture. Therefore, it is crucial to control the amount of oil and auxiliaries used in the production process.

6.Weight deviation rate
The weight deviation rate is where a single cashmere product is counted as a unit, and its weight is determined by the design, and the yarn and density during the production process. According to the determined weight deviation rate, the product cannot be lighter than 3% of the design determined weight.

 

II. Appearance indicators

 

1.Size tolerance
According to China’s textile industry standard, the size deviation standards of cashmere sweaters are;
- deviation rate of body length, sleeve length-plus or minus 1cm
- deviation rate of chest circumference, waist circumference, hem (full circumference)-plus or minus 1.5cm
- deviation rate of shoulder width, collar width, collar depth- plus or minus 1cm
- deviation rate of sleeve width- 0.5cm (half width)

 

2. Collar stretch size
For chest measurements above 100cm, the collar stretch should be above 32cm.
For chest measurements below 100cm, the collar stretch should be 31cm-32cm.

 

3. Stitch strength and seam elongation
Cashmere is very fine, and the yarn strength is relatively smaller. There are generally three solutions for this.
One, the yarn is twisted to increase the tensile strength.
Two, add an elastic thread to the stitching of cashmere to increase tensile strength.
Three, use a cashmere thread of the same count and colour for the stitching thread to increase tensile strength. The stitch elongation is to allow for a certain amount of stretch in the seam of elasticity, this is to prevent the stitching from being pulled during wear.
Stitch elongation should not be less than 30% on the shoulder, body, sleeve, collar and hand seams.

 

4. Twist angle
Due to the twist of the cashmere yarn, certain cashmere products will appear twisted and the cashmere sweater will have a parallelogram shape. A twist angle of more than 1.5cm is not allowed (lengths from two diagonal corners).

 

5. The appearance of defects
The surface of cashmere sweaters should be flat and fleecy, with clear stitching, and no obvious defects or repair marks.

 

III. FINISHED GARMENT PRODUCTION STANDARDS

 

1. Craftsmanship requirements
Craftsmanship requirements include a complete understanding of the design and production concept, and good communication with the designer. In terms of shape, size, style and weight, the design requirements must be met, and the cashmere sweater must look flat and beautiful.

 

2. Water content and moisture content
The water and moisture content of cashmere are determined by the industry standard and is 15%. The moisture content of cashmere sweaters should be between 7% and 10% to prevent mildew and corrosion.

 

3. Stitching requirements
The stitching should be strong, even, straight, not sloppy. The ribbing should be straight at the front and back, sleeves and shoulder seams. The sleeve and body seams should be flat, not loose and wrinkled.

 

4.Collar
The collar should be symmetrical, round collars should be round and smooth, the v-neck should be v-straight (with a small amount of curvature) and the v-neck tip should be pinched, there is no crookedness allowed.

 

5.Ironing requirements
The iron can not be pressed onto the cashmere sweater; it should be raised 0.5-1cm above the sweater. There should not be any laser.

 

6.Buttoning requirements
There should not be any issues with buttonholes, and the buttoning must be neat. The outer edge of the placket should cover the inner edge.

 

7. Washing and surface texture requirements
The fleece should not stick out more than 1-2mm, the fleece surface must not be too large, and the stitching on the fleece surface should be clear. Be mindful of the wash time after weaving, the feel should be soft, smooth and fluffy.
Do not mix washing water to prevent intarsia and secondary coloured cashmere sweaters from colour mixing during the washing process.

 

8.Final production procedure
After the sweater is produced, pay attention to eliminating impurities such as brushing off excess fleece as fluff from other coloured cashmere can easily get caught on the sweater. Extra attention is required when brushing impurities off black, intarsia, and secondary coloured sweaters to remove foreign fleece and debris. All foreign fibres and grass thorns need to be removed.

 

9. Zip requirements
The two sides on the zip should be aligned, and the slider should be even, creating an appealing look. The upper wrapped edge should be uniform and not show any signs of wrinkling, and the width of the wrapped edge should just cover the zip. The upper and lower edges of the zip should also be aligned and fixed. The length of the zip must be calculated correctly, ensuring the length of the cashmere sweater does not become longer or shorter due to the incorrect size of the zip.

 

10. Requirement for cashmere sweaters with various added decorations and special designs.
Sweaters must be made in accordance with design requirements, or have the signed approval by the design department and the company before proceeding with production. Other indicators or special models should be produced in accordance with company requirements.

June 09, 2021 — Christine Yip

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